| | All Saints, Burton Dassett, Warwickshire
Some of this church's gravestones appear in the Gothic Galleries. But it needs a full page to itself, really.
We visited Burton Dassett, once an important place but now a hamlet in the middle of nowhere very much, to look at the Holy Well there. The church
obviously deserved a visit, as it seemed unusually grand and large. But
these obvious facts were no preparation for what lay inside.
| |
It is icy cold
within All Saints (all right, there was snow falling outside, but it
didn't seem any warmer in), but that seemed no more than
appropriate to the bare magnificence of this grand building. The
stripped plaster and comfortless interior convey an impression of
colossal age far more strongly than other, perhaps older but
better-furnished churches. And then there's the incline. The church is
built
on a hillside, but rather than cut straight into the earth, or build
the church out on a level and have a crypt beneath, the builders chose
to have the nave gently rising as you approach the east end. From the
sunken floor of the tower at the west to the sanctuary at the
east the difference must be twelve-to-fifteen feet. That altar feels a
long, long way away from anything else, and, big though the church is, strangely the inside feels even bigger. |
| |
The
roofs of the side chapels soar upwards, leaving old bench pews, Our
Lady of Walsingham seated on her plinth, and scribbled prayers
scattered over an old tomb-chest, all frozen in the spare, stripped
air. Part of the ruinous atmosphere is explained by the fact that the
church is, indeed, in need of repair and has been since the late 1800s
when the rotten wooden floor and pews were removed and the different
floor levels discovered. Then in 1934 it was found that some of the
walls were not solid stone, but cob faced with stone - not the most durable material. |
The church is well-known for its wall-paintings,
both the medieval ones of the Magi and post-Reformation texts such as
the one above. There is talk of 'restoring' those that survive, but
hopefully whatever happens will not restore away the unique ambience of
this stunning church. |
|